Cairo, Luxor

I just got into Budapest after an amazing 5 day journey through Egypt. The first 3 days were in Cairo and the last two in Luxor (south of Cairo down the Nile). I just lived every 5th grader's dream: hieroglphs, tombs, tutankamen's mask, mummies, and temples. The history of Egyptian civilization is really too much to grasp as a tourist, especially when standing in a tomb that was created 4000 years ago. The Egyptian ruins were spectacular: colorful paintings, gold leafings, detailed hieroglyphs, etc. It took all of my strength to remember what I learned in elementary school about ancient Egypt though I remember more than expected. Ramses III (or was it the II?) was in fact mummified arms-up and tutankamen's mask is as elegant and beautiful as the pictures show. The pyramids are towering, though it is rather annoying because there are so many locals trying to see trinkets and tzotchkies. We were asked to be in pictures with young Egyptian students and everywhere we went little kids would stare and say hello.

Cairo itself is an absolute mess. It is loud, dust-filled, and always moving. If I didn't know any better, I'd think that Cairo, not NY, is the city that never sleeps. Cairenes have no concept of street lights--they might as well not exist. Crossing the street is terrifying. Cars/Cabs honk CONSTANTLY. It is loud and crowded and yet, there is a definite system to the madness. 18 million people seem to work it out OK.

Luxor was a beautiful area: we saw tombs, temples (Hatchepsut's, Karnak, Luxor), huge statues (Collossus of Memnon), and countless rows of hieroglyphs. It was nice because there werent many tourists as it is the start of the low season. Luxor itself (the town) is a small, dust-filled 3rd world town. Cars drive next to bikes and horses down main street on unpaved roads. It could've been Baghdad or Islamabad. Calls to prayer were frequent and often layered on top of one another. Robes were the standard dress for men and women alike. Most western feminists would've have trouble with Luxor. The women don't get sunburn though.

Egypt is centered around Cairo. My friend Jim, who we stayed with, kept talking about the amount of US assistance given to Egypt and the importance America to the Egyptian government (for better or worse). It is a fascinating system of bribery, diplomacy and "democracy." Egpyt seems to live in the shadow of the pyramids and the ancient culture. This doesn't seem to be changing either given the lack of modern culture.

The highlight was probably the first night. We rode horses in the middle of the night in the desert while overlooking the pyramids (lit up by spotlights). It was an amazing sight and, to my surprise, riding horses is kinda fun. Many more experiences took place, though I'm off to eat dinner Budapest. More later.