There has been a lot in the news lately about Olmert (the Israeli PM) for alleged corruption. Very interesting given the Israel's 60th birthday party with Bush, Blair, Kissinger, Buffet, Adelson, Jon Voight and others in the country. Jerusalem is supposedly a zoo because of the security issues with so many heads of state here. I read that it's the most complicated security event in the country's history. Today marks Independence Day on the standard calendar (not sure of the real title for it) whereas the fun last week (see post below) was the day on the Jewish calendar. I'm not gonna get to Jerusalem to see it but maybe I'll find a TV and watch. I can't imagine what the city is like right now.
The campus of Tel Aviv University has been a party for the last few weeks. Seemingly everyday there is a fair, concert, rally, or speech. Tents are always up and kids are all over the quad. Last week there were 1 shekel beer sales (30 cents) and food stands everywhere. Concerts are a constant. Maybe this is what happens at big universities. Bowdoin can't quite match the energy, but we can sure try. Tomorrow is Yom Hastudent (Student Day). It's the equivalent of the "Spring Weekend" that takes place in the US, except it's one day. Some of Israel's top bands/DJs will be on campus. There are stages set up all over campus. There are kegs everywhere--I counted 30 kegs right outside one of the academic buildings. Not sure how classes are gonna work tomorrow. I should be an awesome day of Israeli music.
Tonight is the final banquet for my program: a sad night indeed. Classes end tomorrow and then exams are all of next week. It's been a sad few days though I get the sense that most people are ready to leave. There's a lot of bittersweet chocolate going around. I'm going to staying in Tel Aviv for a few weeks after the program ends and before summer plans begin. A bunch of friends will be here so I'm excited for it. I'm also excited to see a few friends who are doing birthright. It'll be great to see a few familiar faces.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Yom HaZikaron (Memorial Day) and Yom Haatzmaut (Indepence Day)
Last week brought two of the most important Israeli (not Jewish) holidays of the year. Memorial Day and Indepence Day are celebrated/commemorated in a very different manner than in America. In Israel, people seem to actually care about the holidays and show not only an interest in them, but a committment to their meaning. Just about everyone attends some sort of event for both holidays, unlike in America where Memorial Day has lost much of its significance for younger Americans. Because military service is required here, nearly the whole population knows someone who was killed in the defense of Israel or a terrorist attack, or knows of someone who was killed. This is very different than in America. Memorial Day seems to mean a lot more because death is closer to the average Israeli than the average American (though it is not a topic of discussion). As in America, there wasn't school.
Memorial Day and Independence are always two consecutive days. It was somewhat surreal to go from sadness--a sadness that took over the whole country--to celebration--a celebration that took over the whole country. The holidays also provide a significant amount of tension between Israeli Jews and Israeli Arabs (more later). Memorial Day starts at 8 PM (the night before) with the sounding of the war siren nationwide. The siren sounds for 2 minutes. Everyone stops what they are doing (literally) and stands in silence. The whole country stops. The whole country. stops. It is amazing. There is a veritable sense of unity that I've never felt before (maybe right after 9/11 though this seems a little less forced because it's not a reaction to one mobilizing event). My program hosted a ceremony that was run by other kids on the program. It was an appropriate and thoughtful ceremony--especially because it was run by a lot of my friends. It kind of showed the power of college kids to do good.
That night, everything was closed: restaurants, stores, bar, clubs, cafes. Tel Aviv shut down, except for Kikar Rabin (the central square). I went there with a friend of mine. Hundreds of people were in the square sitting on the streets and chairs. The roads were closed off for at least 3 blocks in each direction. Needless to say, security was on its game. There was a group playing music on a huge stage though the songs were slow and probably would've been meaningful if I could've understood them. It was very powerful when Hatikveh (the national anthem) was played. Hundreds of people stood and sang to remember fallen friends and family, and to show strength for the future. We kind of took an anthropological approach to being there (as observers), but it was tough not to join in song. After a long walk around the quiet city, I went back to the dorms (also quiet).
The next morning I set my alarm to wake up in time to hear the second war siren (another 2 minutes). I decided to walk to the highway (Ayalon South) to see what happens when the siren goes off. As I was told would happen, the siren sounded and every car on the road pulled over, drivers all got out of their cars, and stood in silence, listening to the siren. This wasn't a local road, this was a big highway (think I-95). Pretty powerful. When the siren stopped, everyone got back into their cars and continued like nothing happened. For those 2 minutes, the rush and noise of the city evaporated, the city itself turned silent.
Memorial Day itself was marked with ceremonies around the city and TV presentations. Lots of people went to the military cemetary in Jerusalem on Mt. Herzl (har Herzl). A lot of us on the program were unsure of what to do during the day as we had no reason to go to visit a cemetary though wanted to obvserve the holiday appropriately. We were all definitely struck with a bit of being outsiders.
8 PM that night (with a flame lighting ceremony in Jerusalem like at the Olympics) was the start of Independence Day. There was an instantaneous shift in mood. It was easy to feel. Given the 60th birthday of Israel this year, the celebrations were extravagent. Independence Day feels more meaningful here because independence happened so recently and many of those who fought in '48 are still alive. I also think the constant threat to Israel's existence probably makes Independence rather symbolic of the survival of the Jewish nationality as well as the defeat in '48 of the Arab armies/militias. The '48 war of independence is called "al-nakba" by Arabs, or, the catastrophe. As such, Independence Day is an understandably contentious day within Israel, and, to be honest, I am still surprised that I didn't see a single protest. Nonetheless, it's a day (along with Memorial Day) that divides the country. Yesterday, on campus, there was a tent set up by Arab-Israeli students to commemorate al-Nakba.
Back to the night. Again, I went to Kikar Rabin. There were probably 1000s of people there. After an energetic concert (in contrast to the night before), there was an incredible fireworks and light show. Fireworks were shot off of city hall (where Rabin was killed) for a good 20 minutes. There was singing and dancing and craziness. I must've sung every Hebrew song that I've ever learned that night. It felt much different than the 4th of July because there was a huge communal feeling to the night. After being in DC last summer for the 4th, I think Tel Aviv might do Independence Day a little better. After the fireworks and light show, I went with lots of friends to an enormous street party. It was the same place where the Purim party was a few weeks ago (party for a Jewish holiday). This was the closest I've ever been to experiencing Mardi Gras. Though probably a little more tame, it was still an event to be seen. 1000s of young Israelis (15-30) partying in the street into the wee hours of the night. It was awesome. Lots more singing and dancing. There was even a group of religious Israelis who joined the fun.
The next day I had a BBQ with a few friends and then ended the day at the beach. A great sunset capped off a rollercoaster ride through two days. Pictures to come.
Memorial Day and Independence are always two consecutive days. It was somewhat surreal to go from sadness--a sadness that took over the whole country--to celebration--a celebration that took over the whole country. The holidays also provide a significant amount of tension between Israeli Jews and Israeli Arabs (more later). Memorial Day starts at 8 PM (the night before) with the sounding of the war siren nationwide. The siren sounds for 2 minutes. Everyone stops what they are doing (literally) and stands in silence. The whole country stops. The whole country. stops. It is amazing. There is a veritable sense of unity that I've never felt before (maybe right after 9/11 though this seems a little less forced because it's not a reaction to one mobilizing event). My program hosted a ceremony that was run by other kids on the program. It was an appropriate and thoughtful ceremony--especially because it was run by a lot of my friends. It kind of showed the power of college kids to do good.
That night, everything was closed: restaurants, stores, bar, clubs, cafes. Tel Aviv shut down, except for Kikar Rabin (the central square). I went there with a friend of mine. Hundreds of people were in the square sitting on the streets and chairs. The roads were closed off for at least 3 blocks in each direction. Needless to say, security was on its game. There was a group playing music on a huge stage though the songs were slow and probably would've been meaningful if I could've understood them. It was very powerful when Hatikveh (the national anthem) was played. Hundreds of people stood and sang to remember fallen friends and family, and to show strength for the future. We kind of took an anthropological approach to being there (as observers), but it was tough not to join in song. After a long walk around the quiet city, I went back to the dorms (also quiet).
The next morning I set my alarm to wake up in time to hear the second war siren (another 2 minutes). I decided to walk to the highway (Ayalon South) to see what happens when the siren goes off. As I was told would happen, the siren sounded and every car on the road pulled over, drivers all got out of their cars, and stood in silence, listening to the siren. This wasn't a local road, this was a big highway (think I-95). Pretty powerful. When the siren stopped, everyone got back into their cars and continued like nothing happened. For those 2 minutes, the rush and noise of the city evaporated, the city itself turned silent.
Memorial Day itself was marked with ceremonies around the city and TV presentations. Lots of people went to the military cemetary in Jerusalem on Mt. Herzl (har Herzl). A lot of us on the program were unsure of what to do during the day as we had no reason to go to visit a cemetary though wanted to obvserve the holiday appropriately. We were all definitely struck with a bit of being outsiders.
8 PM that night (with a flame lighting ceremony in Jerusalem like at the Olympics) was the start of Independence Day. There was an instantaneous shift in mood. It was easy to feel. Given the 60th birthday of Israel this year, the celebrations were extravagent. Independence Day feels more meaningful here because independence happened so recently and many of those who fought in '48 are still alive. I also think the constant threat to Israel's existence probably makes Independence rather symbolic of the survival of the Jewish nationality as well as the defeat in '48 of the Arab armies/militias. The '48 war of independence is called "al-nakba" by Arabs, or, the catastrophe. As such, Independence Day is an understandably contentious day within Israel, and, to be honest, I am still surprised that I didn't see a single protest. Nonetheless, it's a day (along with Memorial Day) that divides the country. Yesterday, on campus, there was a tent set up by Arab-Israeli students to commemorate al-Nakba.
Back to the night. Again, I went to Kikar Rabin. There were probably 1000s of people there. After an energetic concert (in contrast to the night before), there was an incredible fireworks and light show. Fireworks were shot off of city hall (where Rabin was killed) for a good 20 minutes. There was singing and dancing and craziness. I must've sung every Hebrew song that I've ever learned that night. It felt much different than the 4th of July because there was a huge communal feeling to the night. After being in DC last summer for the 4th, I think Tel Aviv might do Independence Day a little better. After the fireworks and light show, I went with lots of friends to an enormous street party. It was the same place where the Purim party was a few weeks ago (party for a Jewish holiday). This was the closest I've ever been to experiencing Mardi Gras. Though probably a little more tame, it was still an event to be seen. 1000s of young Israelis (15-30) partying in the street into the wee hours of the night. It was awesome. Lots more singing and dancing. There was even a group of religious Israelis who joined the fun.
The next day I had a BBQ with a few friends and then ended the day at the beach. A great sunset capped off a rollercoaster ride through two days. Pictures to come.
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